# Understanding Monitor Stands



## Gerhard Westphalen (Dec 6, 2016)

I'm trying to understand what it is that one should be after with the stand that their monitors are on.

The Isoacoustic stands seem to let your monitors essentially float freely in space. Correct? Do we want our speakers to be able to move around freely decoupled from the stand? Or do we want the cabinets to not be able to move so that only the drivers are moving?

At the same time I've heard a lot about using very heavy stands. Is that only to try to reduce structure borne transmission or is that also to try to keep the speaker from moving around (the opposite of the Isoacoustics)?

Right now I'm using the Isoacoutics on the cheap adjustable stands that are just a pole. It's fairly wobbly (not the base, just the pole). Is this a bad thing? Would putting these stands on top of concrete blocks provide the same benefits as using a sand filled stand or do I need a stand that can't wobble at all?


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## synthpunk (Dec 6, 2016)

The important part in my opinion is decoupling the stand/floor from the speaker. I use a very simple Hollow wooden stand with points on the bottom for the floor and filled with fine, dry, play sand or lead shot. On the top part of the stand with the speaker I've had good luck with the auralux foam bricks that you see they're pretty inexpensive I just recently switched to the isoacoustic Springs and there was a noticeable difference that's even better. Hope that helps


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## wst3 (Dec 6, 2016)

there are, as you've discovered, two schools on this - one says anchor them to the floor the other says decouple them from the floor... 

I prefer coupling them to the floor with a massive stand so that the loudspeaker can't possible move the stand or the floor. Recently I have been experimenting with the alternative, and not surprisingly, I believe that it depends, a little at least, on the loudspeaker design itself. But push comes to shove I'm anchoring them<G>!


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## Gerhard Westphalen (Dec 6, 2016)

wst3 said:


> there are, as you've discovered, two schools on this - one says anchor them to the floor the other says decouple them from the floor...
> 
> I prefer coupling them to the floor with a massive stand so that the loudspeaker can't possible move the stand or the floor. Recently I have been experimenting with the alternative, and not surprisingly, I believe that it depends, a little at least, on the loudspeaker design itself. But push comes to shove I'm anchoring them<G>!



What about movement of the speaker itself (regardless of coupling to the floor)? Is that debated as well? 

In my case where I'm using the isoacoustics which allows for motion, is additional motion in the stand an issue? It seems that using concrete blocks to decouple from the floor would provide the same benefit as a massive stand if movement isn't an issue.


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## tack (Dec 6, 2016)

The stands I use make contact with the floor only with three pointy tapered metal spikes, in order to minimize sound transference I suppose. Coming from isoAcoustics that were placed on my desk, I really don't think the stand really made any appreciable difference when compared to things like position and room treatment.

But what do I know -- I was hoping to hear more from Bill.


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## Nick Batzdorf (Dec 6, 2016)

The main thing is that the old practice of hanging Tannoy Reds on chains wasn't the best idea, because they were able to move.

I have my 6.5" sat speakers on Auralex Mopads, but they're on a thick, solid oak shelf. That works very well to block sympathetic vibrations. My sub is on the floor, however.

Then I have my big speakers, UREI 809As, in old CRT TV stands that hang from the ceiling. They're so heavy that they dampen the stands by themselves. However, that position is one of necessity rather than anything to do with acoustics.


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## Gerhard Westphalen (Dec 6, 2016)

tack said:


> The stands I use make contact with the floor only with three pointy tapered metal spikes, in order to minimize sound transference I suppose. Coming from isoAcoustics that were placed on my desk, I really don't think the stand really made any appreciable difference when compared to things like position and room treatment.
> 
> But what do I know -- I was hoping to hear more from Bill.



Mine also have 3 little rubber feet (on hardwood) but I'm not sure how well that decouples compared to a really heavy material like concrete or sand. I found the Isoacoustics to make a difference. I'm not sure if it was the increased decoupling and reduced transmission to the floor or if it was from allowing the speakers to move more freely. I've seen some high end stands that use various layers of concrete, granite, and foam for decoupling but are so heavy that the speakers on them can't move so I'm not sure if the wobblyness of my stands are an issue. I don't know if it would be recommended to put Isoacoustics stands on those massive stands and if they would somewhat defeat the purpose of the stands.


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## synthpunk (Dec 6, 2016)

Bill has some very good points I would also add that room construction and floor type are also two factors to consider it could very well come down to one method is good for a concrete floor for example and a different method is good for a wood floor or a wood floor with carpet



wst3 said:


> there are, as you've discovered, two schools on this - one says anchor them to the floor the other says decouple them from the floor...
> 
> I prefer coupling them to the floor with a massive stand so that the loudspeaker can't possible move the stand or the floor. Recently I have been experimenting with the alternative, and not surprisingly, I believe that it depends, a little at least, on the loudspeaker design itself. But push comes to shove I'm anchoring them<G>!


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## wst3 (Dec 7, 2016)

What Synthpunk said!!

I would never go so far as to say studio design is a black art - it's actually based on some pretty basic physics (until you build a 10 Hz, NC 20 room, but that's a different topic<G>!!)

I would, however, go so far as to say that studio design, like so many engineering disciplines, depends on the details.

My last two studios, and my next one, were all build on cement slabs. I didn't isolate the slabs, it wasn't worth the money,and they were massive enough that I didn't have to worry a lot about structure borne transfer. Dirt backed walls on at least two sides is another great "freebie". And these are the sort of details that matter sometimes.

Nick's Urei 809s - I have a pair as well. Love them. Had them hanging in a previous build, then built them into dog-houses next time around, on piles of cement blocks. That worked out quite well. Now they are in free space again (until I get off my lazy tuckus and build the next room), and on stands made from lumber and filled with sand. I was really pleased with the improvement when I filled them.

I don't generally go for the three pointy things trick, but then the stands are on the cement slab. If I were placing them on carpet I'd reconsider... or I'd cut out the carpet<G>!

I'm on the fence about Mo-Pads and similar isolation devices. I have a pair of Mo-Pads and my LSR-305s are sitting on them right now. I think they sound better that way. (They are also sitting on sand filled stands.) I had them under a pair of Presonus Sceptres for a while, and I really couldn't tell the difference. Not sure why. Heavier loudspeakers?

I find this all fascinating, and when I have the time I do experiment and study. Right now I just don't have time...

So my advice would be to experiment, to the degree that you can. It's really no different than selecting the monitors themselves.


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## Gerhard Westphalen (Dec 7, 2016)

wst3 said:


> What Synthpunk said!!
> 
> I would never go so far as to say studio design is a black art - it's actually based on some pretty basic physics (until you build a 10 Hz, NC 20 room, but that's a different topic<G>!!)
> 
> ...



Thanks for sharing. I'll try getting some concrete squares which are pretty cheap and see if they help.


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