# Need help with audio interface/studio monitor info



## Zhao Shen (Jan 21, 2015)

Hi guys!

I was planning on getting a pair of studio monitors and the Steinberg UR22 as an audio interface. The thing I don't quite understand is the connections/inputs/outputs. What do I need to run a setup like that?

From my understanding, I'd need two TRS to TRS cables for hooking each monitor into the interface. How is the interface hooked into the computer, just by USB? Can I hook my MIDI keyboard into the interface? Would that just be another TRS to TRS cable? Also, on the UR22, the two large circles with the "Peak" lights attached, are those TRS-compatible ports too?

Sorry if there are silly questions... I am completely new to setting up studio hardware.


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## Mahlon (Jan 21, 2015)

Zhao Shen @ Wed Jan 21 said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> I was planning on getting a pair of studio monitors and the Steinberg UR22 as an audio interface. The thing I don't quite understand is the connections/inputs/outputs. What do I need to run a setup like that?
> 
> ...



Hey, no silly questions.

Yes, you can connect your monitors to the UR22 with TRS cables (that's the "OUTS" in the back of the unit). The interface is indeed hooked to the computer via USB.

Depends on what kind of keyboard you have.... if it doesn't have USB, then you would need to but your MIDI output of your MIDI keyboard to the MIDI input of the UR22 (via a MIDI cable, not a TRS cable). If your keyboard _does_ have USB, you can just connect that directly to one of the computer's USB ports.

Yeah, the two large circles with the peak lights are both TRS and XLR, so you could use either. But those are inputs so that would be for something like a guitar, or a mic, or something that needs to send a audio signal. If you're just working with MIDI, you'll only use the MIDI ports on the back of the unit or you'll have your MIDI going through USB directly from your keyboard to the computer.

Hope that makes sense.

Best,
Mahlon


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 21, 2015)

Hey thanks, that cleared up a lot! Just one more thing. My M-Audio Oxygen 49 does has a USB connection, which is what I've been using, but I'd much rather hook it into the UR22 since I'm quickly running out of USB ports on my system. How would I do that, through something like this? http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/STX102M

If I hook that into the MIDI In for the UR22, I don't have to do anything with the MIDI Out, right? It'll just be usable as a MIDI keyboard in Cubase?


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## stevetwist (Jan 22, 2015)

Hi Zhao,

I don't own the M-Audio Oxygen 49, but from what I see in the manual, it doesn't have a dedicated MIDI out port. It only has the USB port for sending MIDI data. In addition, it uses the USB for it's power - so it seems you'll need to keep using the USB on your Oxygen.

Also, according to the manual, the TS input on the back of the keyboard is for a sustain pedal. The cable you linked to is for analogue audio, converting between the TRS style connector and an XLR connector. In short: it won't work for MIDI, and actually won't do anything in your particular setup, with that keyboard.


When it comes to connecting studio monitors to your interface, a lot depends on the specific monitors you choose. There are two broad categories of monitors: "active" and "passive". Active monitors have a built in amplifier, and will require their own power supply (included with the speaker). These are capable of taking a line-level signal from your audio interface, and the speaker's internal amplifier will amplify this to the required voltage. Active speakers are probably the easiest setup for a newcomer, especially because you don't have to worry about matching the amp to the speaker - the manufacturer has already done that for you.

Passive speakers, on the other hand, require a separate amplifier, that you will need to purchase separately. Your audio interface will send a line-level signal to the amplifier, which then amplifies this signal and sends it to the speakers. Passive speakers are a more complicated setup - not only do you have to buy more 'parts', and have more cables, but there are also considerations for trying to match the amplifier to the speakers (something I have no knowledge on, as I use active monitors).

Going back to active monitors, the specific requirements for the type of connection will be determined by the monitors themselves, and your interface. There's another consideration to be aware of - that of balanced versus unbalanced line-level signals. Your interface should specify if it's outputs are balanced/unbalanced (some interfaces are capable of switching between the two, depending on whether you use a TRS or a TS jack). The monitors should also state, in their specifications (or user manual) whether they take a balanced input or unbalanced. They should also state the type of connector.

The simplest setup will use the same type of signal for input and output. If your interface outputs a balanced signal, you'll want to use a balanced input on the back of the active monitor. Likewise, if your interface outputs an unbalanced signal, you'll want to use an unbalanced input on the back of the active monitor. There are ways to convert between balanced and unbalanced signals, but they require additional hardware, which will again increase the complexity (and cost) of your setup. For a newcomer, I strongly recommend keeping both ends either balanced, or unbalanced.

It's easy to find cables that convert between different types of connectors, if you keep the input/output the same (balanced/unbalanced) at each end. For example, TRS to XLR (the cable you linked to earlier) can carry a balanced signal. A TS to Phono (RCA) cable can carry an unbalanced signal.


As another consideration - though you may not be worried about this - I personally do not connect studio monitors directly to an audio interface. The reason for this is that the audio interface uses a digital volume control. If your audio interface output at max volume, it would probably be incredibly loud - damaging your speakers, and potentially damaging your hearing. So, naturally, you'll decrease the volume level on the interface. However, almost all audio interfaces use a digital control to decrease the volume level - if something causes the audio interface software to crash, this can render that digital attenuation ineffective, and a full volume signal could be sent to the speakers.

Therefore, I personally always have some form of analogue volume control that sits between my audio interface and whatever speakers (or headphones) I'm using. In the case of monitor speakers, I personally use a Drawmer MC2.1 monitor controller. It acts as an analogue volume control, but also allows me to switch between different inputs, speaker outputs, has two built in headphone amplifiers, and allows for quickly muting the left/right channel, performing a mono-mix, etc. - it's a very useful mixing tool. In addition, it has both unbalanced and balanced inputs, whilst it's outputs are all balanced, so it allows using a variety of sources to send to the speakers.

I hope the above wasn't too much, too soon, for you, as you're just getting into studio monitors and audio interfaces. If you have any more questions, please let me know 

Also, if you have specific monitor speakers in mind (or a selection), that could help for advising you on what cabling etc. you need - especially as you've already stated the audio interface you plan on using. Knowing which speakers you're considering, I can take a look at the specifications for the interface and speakers and offer advice regarding unbalanced/balanced and the types of connectors you'll need.

Cheers,
Steve


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## Mahlon (Jan 22, 2015)

Steve said it a lot better than I could, but in short, no, you can't connect your mAudio other than via USB. You could buy a "powered" USB port to connect to your computer if you are running out of USB inputs.

The image you linked to above is just for audio, no MIDI. That cable just transfers audio from a TRS to an XLR. MIDI cables have 5 prongs rather than 3 (I believe)

Mahlon


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 22, 2015)

Thanks so much for the extended response! It's a shame about the keyboard. At the moment I'm trying to decide between JBL LSR305s and LSR308s. Would be open to any suggestions about them, but they seem pretty similar setup-wise.

Something to control the monitor levels would be great, for not damaging the speakers and for maintaining my lack of deafness. But the Drawmer MC2.1 controller you listed is something way out of my price range, especially as a peripheral item just to keep monitor levels down.

So at the moment all I think I need is two TRS-to-TRS cables, the monitors, and the UR22. Does that sound about right?


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## stevetwist (Jan 22, 2015)

Hi,

Yes, with either the LSR305s or LSR308s, you only need the speakers, UR22 and two TRS-to-TRS cables, and you'll have everything you need to get it all hooked together.

I can completely understand about the MC2.1 being a bit pricey if all you're using it for is as a volume control. There are much cheaper alternatives, for example the TC Electronic Level Pilot, if you only want an analogue volume control. However, you might find you need slightly different cabling depending on what connectors the volume control uses. I'm happy to help you figure out cabling if you find a volume control that you are interested in. The volume control should have balanced inputs and outputs, because that's what the JBLs and UR22 have.

Something to be aware of with the cheaper volume controls is to read reviews to see what the quality is like. Some cheaper controls might attenuate the left and right channels at slightly different amounts at low volumes (a common problem, unfortunately), causing the channels to appear to 'shift to one side'. Reading reviews might help you avoid controls with this issue.

Another alternative is to use the analogue volume control on the speaker itself. Set your speakers to their minimum volume. Set your interface to its maximum volume, and play a max volume white noise through it. Very slowly, bring up the volume of your speakers until it's 'loud', but not dangerously loud. Whilst this may not be the ideal way to drive the speakers (I'm not experienced enough with speaker amplifiers to know if there's a 'sweet spot' for their volume control where they perform better), but it will mean if you ever get a full-volume burst of noise, due to a crash, that it will not be louder than this (because the speakers set the maximum possible volume). It's not quite as good as having a volume control you can quickly dial down when you unexpectedly get a loud noise, but it at least limits the maximum volume possible, and gives you a bit of time to turn off the speakers if you encountered such an error.

Hope that helps,
Steve


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## Astronaut FX (Jan 22, 2015)

If the Drawmer unit is out of your price range, the Radial MC3 may be a more reasonable option. It allows you to select between two sets of monitors with or without a dedicated sub, and has a couple of headphone outs. The Drawmer has a few more bells and whistles that may be needed in a recording studio environment, whereas the Radial unit is perhaps all you would need for a single user, home-based sample composer situation.

If the Radial is still more than you want to spend, another option an SMPro Nanopatch may be a good option. It's essentially like putting a big volume knob between your interface and your monitors. It does only accommodate one set of monitors.

I have a (barely) used Nanopatch that I used before switching to the Radial MC3, which I needed once I added a second set of monitors and a sub. I love the Radial.

You can run directly from your interface to your monitors (and many people do). You just have to be cautious.

Oh, and if you're running out of USB ports on your system, you can always add a USB hub to expand.


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 23, 2015)

I think I'll try the white noise thing. Once I get to fall a bit into the routine of studio monitor work I'll consider a controller, but for now I don't think it's absolutely necessary. Thanks so much for your help guys, this is the reason why I love this forum so much! :D


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 23, 2015)

Oh actually, one more thing. How essential are studio monitor stands? I'm set up in a corner of the room with an L-shaped desk, so it's currently not possible to have two stands sitting behind my desk. Are stands essential in making the monitors sound good? Does the desk absorb too many frequencies?


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## Udo (Jan 23, 2015)

Just get some Monitor Isolation Pads and put them on your desk (with some elevation). I use Auralex MoPads.


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## stevetwist (Jan 23, 2015)

Another alternative are IsoAcoustics products. I'm personally a BIG fan. I use them between my speaker stands and speakers, but you can also use them between the desktop and the speakers. They not only help isolate, they also perform some wizardry to do with how the speaker driver transfers energy into the speaker housing that supposedly improves the clarity and accuracy of the sound - at least according to reviews.

One thing I'd like to ask, what is your goal is for these monitors? Do you plan to listen to them whilst you compose, or do you also plan on using them to mix? I mention this only because you are interested in ensuring the monitors "sound good", and I'd like to have an idea of how good is "good enough". 

If you're planning on mixing, there's actually quite a lot you can do to improve the accuracy of your monitors, by placing them within the room in a specific way, and also potentially getting acoustic treatment for the room. Based on your earlier posts, I feel like this might be something that's more involved than you're interested in, at this point. However, if you are planning to mix, and you have the luxury of re-working the layout of your room, I urge you to at least consider your room layout and potentially room treatment - let me know if this is something you are interested in, and I can both offer tips, and point you in the direction of some great resources where you can learn more. The time and effort (and, with room treatment, money) you invest in the room is often more important than the money invested in the audio hardware itself.

Steve


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 24, 2015)

I'm planning on using these to mix my tracks. I'll always double check the mix on my MDR7506 headphones for sure, but it'd be preferable to get some sort of accurate sound on them!


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## BNRSound (Jan 25, 2015)

I have this exact setup; UR22 going to JBL LSR305's on speaker stands with some foam iso pads. I use XLR cables from the UR22 output's to the XLR input of each speaker. Set the volume on each speaker to 8, with the input switch set to -10db. It sounds really good and I have no complaints. The only thing I'm still not quite sure of is whether to have the input switch on the back of each speaker set to -10db or +4db. The booklet states that most situations should use -10, so I haven't messed with it. Plus, I don't thing the UR22 output's are that hot to warrant the +4 setting. I haven't noticed it distorting anyway.


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## tokatila (Jan 25, 2015)

Zhao Shen @ Sat Jan 24 said:


> Oh actually, one more thing. How essential are studio monitor stands? I'm set up in a corner of the room with an L-shaped desk, so it's currently not possible to have two stands sitting behind my desk. Are stands essential in making the monitors sound good? Does the desk absorb too many frequencies?



These are great (IsoAcoustics ISO-L8R155). Make a noticable difference; eliminate reflections and if needed put the tweeter on your ear level.


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 25, 2015)

Went ahead and got the LSR305s with some isolation pads. Great monitors, love them. Don't know if it's just me, but I can hear a quiet static buzz/hum whenever the monitors are on. Is that normal? Of course, it's just a minor annoyance. Whenever I'm playing anything, it's drowned out. I might play with the acoustic layout of the room too in the future, since I'm almost certain my current corner layout is not the optimal one for monitors.


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## stevetwist (Jan 26, 2015)

Hey Zhao,

I'm really glad you love your new monitors! Congrats on the purchase 

Humming/buzzing might be a ground loop problem. I'm not really experienced enough with wiring to know exactly how to diagnose and cure a ground loop, but it's basically caused by the ability for stray electrical signals, traveling through the ground wiring in your house, to create a loop between your equipment, rather than a straight A-to-B from your equipment to the true ground of your building. You could research 'ground loop hum' if you wanted to try and learn more to diagnose it.

Typically, it can be resolved by changing which power sockets different equipment are plugged into. Alternatively, people sometimes 'lift the ground' on the audio cables, to prevent those cables becoming part of the loop (i.e. breaking the loop between audio interface and speaker). I'm led to believe that lifting the ground in an audio cable between interface and monitors is quite common when someone experiences humming in their speakers. I'm not sure if you can purchase TRS cables that have a lifted ground at one end or not?


With regards to the acoustical layout of your room, it's definitely worth it if you're able to, especially as you'd like to mix. Important considerations include having the speakers symmetrical in the room (same distance from the left wall to the left speaker, as from the right wall to the right speaker). Also, try and have the speakers form an equilateral triangle, where each speaker and your head is a corner of that triangle. Thus, the distance from your head to each speaker is the same as the distance between the two speakers. Then, angle the speakers at your ears.

These tips are intended to help improve stereo imaging and balance. You'll ideally notice a better 'stage', where you can perceive sounds from left to right (and depth, too). In addition, it will hopefully help achieve volume balance between the two speakers, which will improve your mix accuracy. (Of course, to get the best results you really need acoustical treatment in addition to these placement tips - but placement alone is far better than not considering placement).

Ideally, height wise, you want the tweeters level with your ears.

You can also improve the linearity of the bass response, based on your listening location in the room. There's a lot of science involved here for truly figuring it out (and then a bit of an art form for fine tuning the position, by listening), but a very generic rule of thumb is to face down the longest dimension of the room, and place your ears 38% of the length of the room, from the wall you are facing. You'll be in the center of the room, left to right, 38% from the front wall, with the speakers setup to form an equilateral triangle.

I've read that this is a good ball-park starting figure, for most rooms.

I know it can be really inconvenient to lay your room out as mentioned above, but if you want to improve the accuracy of your monitors (frequency response and stereo imaging), it is an important step. From there, considering acoustical treatment will REALLY help, but that's a vast topic for another time, I think 

All the best,
Steve


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks Steve. Really appreciate you taking the time to help me out! I will definitely see what I can do about the loop and about the layout of the room! Sorry about all of the beginner questions, it's a bit baffling diving straight from headphones into monitors! :D


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## stevetwist (Jan 26, 2015)

You're welcome! No need to apologize for "beginner" questions, we all have to start somewhere . I was in a similar situation as you not so long ago, making the transition from headphones to studio monitors, and having to learn about a lot of topics all at the same time: the hardware, with various cabling considerations, electrical considerations, and the acoustics of the listening room. It's a vast subject. Thankfully I always enjoyed physics in school, so I didn't mind studying, and I've always enjoyed educating, too - helping people understand the fundamentals of something so they can go off and do amazing things with that knowledge 

I totally agree that going from headphones to studio monitors is a pretty big leap. It's fairly easy to setup monitors so that they'll play a sound. It's not so easy to setup monitors so that they'll offer you a monitoring environment that's an improvement over headphones. Obviously, if you're investing money into studio monitors you want them to be an improvement - which is where all these other considerations start becoming important.

If you have any questions in the future, as you start figuring out your setup, feel free to ask 

All the best,
Steve


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## Mike Marino (Jan 26, 2015)

Great topic. I hope to be in the same position soon.....so I'll be looking back to this thread for some answers. Thanks!


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## Mahlon (Jan 26, 2015)

Zhao,

Yeah, if you can at all, get the speakers/workstation out of the corner (mine are unfortunately in the same situation as yours at the moment) and center them in the middle of the shorter side of the room so that the longer walls are going back behind you -- if there is a long and short side to the room. It will probably help to pull your desk back away from the wall a bit, too -- depending on what shape your room is. That will make an immediate difference in how accurately you can hear bass without modes going all crazy.

I'm basically in an almost square room -- the worst; but I did notice that when put my mixing desk and monitors a couple of feet from the center of my slightly longer wall, it made a huge difference in bass modes. Sounded much better.

Anyway, I'm sure no expert, but I've gotten better results that way.

Also, bass traps have helped a lot.

Mahlon


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## Zhao Shen (Jan 27, 2015)

Steve - I might just take you up on that offer and send you some specific details when I get the time (and motivation to unplug everything) to re-plan my studio.

Mike - Glad you might get something from this thread! Long live VI!

To anyone who might know - the room where I have my studio is absolutely riddled with random spaces... I'm guessing that doesn't help the ideal placement of monitors. For example, on one wall is a bedroom door. On another is a little window without glass (I'm sure there's a name for it, just can't think of it right now, it's essentially an opening to the next room) and an open doorway. On the third are the stairs leading up to the main floor (ceiling height, banisters of stairs might affect?). Only one wall is totally blank. I'll wager that everything's still better than being stuffed in my corner, though.


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