# The Adam A5 monitors are lovely, but...



## Stephen Baysted (Mar 22, 2010)

Dan, what's your room like? And what acoustic treatment do you have?


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## Dan Mott (Mar 22, 2010)

Rousseau @ Mon Mar 22 said:


> Dan, what's your room like? And what acoustic treatment do you have?



Well... i have no acoustic treatment at all. Infact if i move around the room, i can only hear the bass in some sports, not all. Shame that i can't hear the bass sitting infront of my speakers.

My room is 13 x 10 and untreated.


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## Waywyn (Mar 22, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Mon Mar 22 said:


> They lack in bass big time.
> 
> Yes, ofcourse they would, they're only a 5 inch.
> 
> ...



That's why Adam built the Sub7 

If it's too overwhelming then you didn't have good room treatment (bass traps or whatever) or you didn't care to calibrate it right. The easiest way to put in a soundtrack with a bass signal you consider good and balance the level of the Sub to sound appropriate.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 22, 2010)

Subs....... hmmmm.

I heard subs aren't accurate when it comes to bass response because it colors the sound, am i right?? Or is there a sub that has a flat bass response, but there can't be such thing, the bigger the sub, the bigger the bass, and if there's i knob where you can turn the bass louder or softer, how do you know the right place to set it? I mean as far as i'm concerned, you could either set it to bassy, or with too little bass, and constantly re adjusting.


Hmm...


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## Waywyn (Mar 22, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Mon Mar 22 said:


> Subs....... hmmmm.
> 
> I heard subs aren't accurate when it comes to bass response because it colors the sound, am i right?? Or is there a sub that has a flat bass response, but there can't be such thing, the bigger the sub, the bigger the bass, and if there's i knob where you can turn the bass louder or softer, how do you know the right place to set it? I mean as far as i'm concerned, you could either set it to bassy, or with too little bass, and constantly re adjusting.
> 
> ...



Why should a thing made for bass not be accurate when it comes to that specific signal??

As said before, if you treat your room right and you calibrate your sub, you have a perfect bass response to whatever you do. The same applies to your speakers.

There are several threads on this forum about how to treat your room.

I am e.g. aware of a few bass bumps in my room so I listen back with headphones (don't have a decent sub yet).
I know it's not the best solution, but I know my speakers, I know my headphones, I know my room and I know how other productions sound on them. So if you might listen to well produced tracks for like over a week, your ears are also "calibrated", so you can use this as a reference.


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## Toxeen (Mar 22, 2010)

Using Adam A5 + Sub 7 here. Mainly writing for trailers and big screen stuff. So bass levels are very important for me, as well.

They absolutely rock! One of the best subs I've had, by far, in that price range.

Depending on your room, you need to adjust your monitors/sub's volume a bit and it really might depend on your end.
Always doublecheck w/ other speaker pairs, headphones, etc.


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## Toxeen (Mar 22, 2010)

Using Adam A5 + Sub 7 here. Mainly writing for trailers and big screen stuff. So bass levels are very important for me, as well.

They absolutely rock! One of the best subs I've had, by far, in that price range.

Depending on your room, you need to adjust your monitors/sub's volume a bit and it really might depend on your end.
Always doublecheck w/ other speaker pairs, headphones, etc.


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## Nick Batzdorf (Mar 22, 2010)

What Alex says - a well-integrated sub is definitely accurate.

However, as I posted in the other thread, in my experience you really do need big speakers - big boxes - for the low end to sound right. Intuitively there's no reason a sub wouldn't do the same thing, even if it's crossed over above the rumble range, but in practice it just isn't the same thing.


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## Stephen Baysted (Mar 22, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Mon Mar 22 said:


> Rousseau @ Mon Mar 22 said:
> 
> 
> > Dan, what's your room like? And what acoustic treatment do you have?
> ...



There's your problem right there Dan. You've got standing waves and it would appear from what you say your monitoring position is right in a null. 

|It's not the monitors, it's the room. You will need to treat the room by placing bass traps in the corners and also preferably at the mirror points, and perhaps a cloud or two on the ceiling to tame flutter echo. What's on the floor? 

Are your monitors currently on stands? 

Before you upgrade your monitors, treat your room. You'll be amazed. 

Cheers

Stephen


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## Dan Mott (Mar 22, 2010)

My room.


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## Nick Batzdorf (Mar 22, 2010)

I'd face the corner for openers, then raise those speakers to ear level.


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## Stephen Baysted (Mar 23, 2010)

Nick Batzdorf @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> I'd face the corner for openers, then raise those speakers to ear level.



+1 

Dan, 

13 x 10 isn't *that* small. Is there any reason why you're pushed right up in that corner? Can you move the whole lot further into the room?

As above, get those monitors off that desk! - put them on stands. Try to get that left hand monitor well away from that corner too. Have you got a table cloth handy? If so, drape that over your desk right now as quick measure to limit reflections from the desk. Your desk will be acting like a resonator and a reflector atm. 

Your problem is essentially that at certain points in your room (and from what you say at your monitoring position) bass is being canceled out (nulls) and at other points it is being 'amplified' (nodes). Both are horrible, classic symptoms of standing waves and room modes, so you want to try to minimize them as much as you can. 

Are you any good at DIY? If yes, you can build yourself some effective bass traps quite cheaply. If not, you can buy some very good ones - it'll cost, but you will not believe how much difference they will make. 

Cheers

Stephen


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## Waywyn (Mar 23, 2010)

Nick Batzdorf @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> I'd face the corner for openers, then raise those speakers to ear level.



+1 on that!

Dan, did you ever kinda sit a bit lower on your chair and bring your ears directly to the level of the speakers so the ears are exactly or a bit lower than your hi-speaker?

Listen to music while moving up and down with your head/body and you will also hear a difference in the higher frequencies. Just wanted to pay your attention what all happens to the sound by just placing them right.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 23, 2010)

Hey guys.

I'm glad you're all helpful.

The speakers are at my ear level, so no worries about that. I try to sit so my ears are in line with the tweeters, if that's correct?? I generally like sitting low, but i think maybe i need to raise the speakers a bit because i might just be a tiny bit too low from really looking at it right now. Hmmm.

Oh, and what you do guys mean by placing my self somewhere different? Am i in a bad spot??

I'm not sure what you mean by face the corner for openers??

Would a table cloth be thick enough??


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## Stephen Baysted (Mar 23, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> Hey guys.
> 
> I'm glad you're all helpful.
> 
> ...




Yes you are in a bad spot in a room which is seriously compromised (and indeed compromising your mixing/mastering decisions). It is that bad and that serious! Honestly, before you do anything rash like buy new monitors or whatever, sort your room acoustics and your monitoring position out. 

Table cloth will help a little bit from where you are right now. Indeed, anything would help


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## Frederick Russ (Mar 23, 2010)

Nick Batzdorf @ Mon Mar 22 said:


> However, as I posted in the other thread, in my experience you really do need big speakers - big boxes - for the low end to sound right. Intuitively there's no reason a sub wouldn't do the same thing, even if it's crossed over above the rumble range, but in practice it just isn't the same thing.



I'm glad I wasn't the only one who observed that. Thought it was just me. There is a difference.


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## hbuus (Mar 23, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by face the corner for openers??



Dan-Jay, what is meant is, if possible, turn your table (what, 45 degrees counterclockwise?) so that from your chair you will be staring straight into the corner. That's because it's a bad idea acoustically to have one monitor in a corner and the other not. If you turn your table, then each of your monitors will have "the same" behind it, i.e. a wall.


EDIT:
Oops, looking at your photo, I think one monitor will have that window behind it.
But it's probably still better than having one monitor in the corner, and the other not.
Maybe some of the other guys know better what to do.

Best,
Henrik


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## Nick Batzdorf (Mar 23, 2010)

The window will let some bass out, but it's still better to be symmetrical.


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## germancomponist (Mar 23, 2010)

Frederick Russ @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> Nick Batzdorf @ Mon Mar 22 said:
> 
> 
> > However, as I posted in the other thread, in my experience you really do need big speakers - big boxes - for the low end to sound right. Intuitively there's no reason a sub wouldn't do the same thing, even if it's crossed over above the rumble range, but in practice it just isn't the same thing.
> ...



Yes, there is a big difference. o/~


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## david robinson (Mar 23, 2010)

germancomponist @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> Frederick Russ @ Tue Mar 23 said:
> 
> 
> > Nick Batzdorf @ Mon Mar 22 said:
> ...



Yes, a huge difference.
every time i hear something thru a 2.1, i get edgy.
i like i'm saddled to a specific sweet spot.
hate that.
the boxes for my monitors, including stands are 7ft tall and 3ft wide, ea.
i can still hear good bass at 70db spl.
plus the sweet spot is ~ 5ft wide.
i can work or sit most anywhere in the room and get little coloration or stereo skew.
j.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 23, 2010)

Ok guys.

So here's what i need to do to improve my room acoustics.

1. Move the table so that i'm facing the corner which would require a 45 degree turn.

2. Buy some decent stands for my speakers. (Anyone have any suggestions for that?)

3. If i do make the turn, then i still might need to consider buying some acoutic treatment for my walls/ect.

Is that a good start?


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## d-dmusic (Mar 23, 2010)

Dan, the first thing you need to do is treat your room. I've built two private recording studios and I'll offer my 2 cents CDN of advice (from my own experience)

1. Do not rely on acoustic foam as a primary treatment. You will end up sucking a disproportionate amount of mids and high frequencies out of your room and you will end up with a "boom room." Completely inaccurate and lifeless.

Two products are much, much better and you can DIY :
a) Home Depot has Roxul "Safe & Sound" insulation which absorbs much more evenly.

b) Even better, but more difficult to find is rigid insulation. Owens Corning 703 (I seems to remember from a Ethan Winer discussion on DIY acoustic treatment)With this type of insulation you truly have a broadband absorber and the results are quite stunning. With a good set of reference monitors, the clarity was like wearing headphones.

I have Ethan Winer's DIY plans for high-mid and low frequency absorbers from years and years ago. If you are handy, you can build these "traps" and finish them with stained wood and black speaker cloth (from Fabricland) and they look fantastic. I've built these for my own studio and I get comments all the time.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 23, 2010)

d-dmusic @ Wed Mar 24 said:


> Dan, the first thing you need to do is treat your room. I've built two private recording studios and I'll offer my 2 cents CDN of advice (from my own experience)
> 
> 1. Do not rely on acoustic foam as a primary treatment. You will end up sucking a disproportionate amount of mids and high frequencies out of your room and you will end up with a "boom room." Completely inaccurate and lifeless.
> 
> ...



I see. Interesting suggestions here.

Would the stands designed for the A5 do?? I heard this treats the acoustics quite well, and atleast they'll be off the table? Or is that option you suggested better?

I'm not very handy to be honest. I'd probably have to really study on how to make one of those my self. 

Have you got any links for the stuff you mentioned??


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## Dan Mott (Mar 23, 2010)

Just discovered that moving the table isn't an option unfortunately. There's just no room if i do it.

Is there a way i can properly treat that corner so i'd basically get the same results, if not better than moving it??

Maybe a couple of bass traps and acoustic treatment in the corner and the wall behind the speakers??


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## Frederick Russ (Mar 23, 2010)

d-dmusic @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> b) Even better, but more difficult to find is rigid insulation. Owens Corning 703 (I seems to remember from a Ethan Winer discussion on DIY acoustic treatment)With this type of insulation you truly have a broadband absorber and the results are quite stunning. With a good set of reference monitors, the clarity was like wearing headphones.
> 
> I have Ethan Winer's DIY plans for high-mid and low frequency absorbers from years and years ago. If you are handy, you can build these "traps" and finish them with stained wood and black speaker cloth (from Fabricland) and they look fantastic. I've built these for my own studio and I get comments all the time.



Ethan Winer - affiliated with Real Traps? Cool. I definitely need to be looking in the direction of treating my studio better. I seem to remember a DIY discussion where several people were building their own using plans. Thanks for the reminder!


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## hbuus (Mar 23, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Wed Mar 24 said:


> Just discovered that moving the table isn't an option unfortunately. There's just no room if i do it.



Maybe get a smaller table that will fit?

I made that 45 degree turning of my own setup, which was also placed in a corner.
You will not believe how much difference it made!!
Details are clearer, stereo image MUCH better.
You will be amazed, I'm sure, if you can get that 45 degree change made to your setup!


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## d-dmusic (Mar 24, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Tue Mar 23 said:


> I'm not very handy to be honest. I'd probably have to really study on how to make one of those my self.
> 
> Have you got any links for the stuff you mentioned??



Here is the link to the plans :
http://www.ethanwiner.com/BTPlans.gif

Here is the link to the entire Ethan Winer Build a Better Bass Trap page :
http://www.ethanwiner.com/basstrap.html
I will tell you that going from Acoustic Foam as a primary absorber to Ethan's Traps was, without exaggeration, night and day difference. 

You don't have to get fancy :
a) on your "front wall" (the wall that you face with the speakers in front of you), build another framing structure out of 2 x 4's. As if you were building another wall. b)In a checker board pattern (you don't necessarily want to fill up the entire wall) fill the frames with Roxul Safe & Sound or Owens Corning 703.
c)Cover the whole thing in speaker cloth-stapling the speaker cloth to the 2 X 4 "'s
d)Cover your staples/framing with nicely stained wood trim. Beautiful ! And, wow, what a sonic difference.


Here is how one person built his own :
http://www.radford.edu/shelm/acoustics/bass-traps.html
However, I will say that if you can do them out of wood, they will look far nicer.


Dan, get those speakers off the table and on to stands. Soon. If not now.
Again, I made my own stands out of MDF shelving wood. It took me probably an hour to do. But, once again, the difference is huge. De-coupling the speakers from a resonant table is super important. You may have been, inadvertently, causing a buid up of frequencies exactly where the table loves to wildly resonate sympathetically.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 24, 2010)

d-dmusic @ Thu Mar 25 said:


> Dan-Jay @ Tue Mar 23 said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not very handy to be honest. I'd probably have to really study on how to make one of those my self.
> ...



Thanks so much for your help.

So do you think the Adam A5 stand model would make a big difference?? It's the stand that actually is designed for that speaker only.


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## d-dmusic (Mar 24, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Wed Mar 24 said:


> Thanks so much for your help.
> 
> So do you think the Adam A5 stand model would make a big difference?? It's the stand that actually is designed for that speaker only.



No problemo Dan. 

Yes, any speaker stand will make a huge difference. It doesn't have to be the Adam A5 stand model. You may want to consider a stand that has some sort of height adjustment (if possible). As the high frequencies are directional, get those tweeters lined up with the ear.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 24, 2010)

d-dmusic @ Thu Mar 25 said:


> Dan-Jay @ Wed Mar 24 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks so much for your help.
> ...



Great.

I now have some ideas on what i can do to improve my setup.

Thank you, and thank you to everyone else that helped.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 25, 2010)

hey everyone.

I had a think and i turned my table so that i was facing the corner as you can see in one of those pictures. I haven't really noticed anything yet, but i suppose it's late and i can't have music loud. 

I have another problem though. My computer noise is quite loud and i think it maybe because it's vibrating off the walls and off the back of the table. I pretty much put the computer behind the table so it wouldn't be messy and the cords were hidden, not to mention i couldn't really put it anywhere else.

I was wondering if acoustic foam would help this issue a bit. Maybe i could put some attached to the back of the table and some around the walls of where it's vibrating off. Then there's another solution of buying new fans, but i'm just not sure if that's the right move for long term use. Buying new fans can be tedious i guess.

What would you do in this situation?? I know i have to get some stands for my speakers, but what about some bass traps in the corner i'm facing?? Or maybe some acoustic treatment around the back area to get rid of the vibrating reverberation from my computer and also for monitoring. I mean, as you can see the wall is pretty much empty and i'm possitive that this maybe be causing alot of bouncing issues, maybe even mud.

The computer sound is pretty much drowning out my listen level monitoring which requires me to turn up the speakers and i don't like mixing too loud.

Any help would be amazing.


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## hbuus (Mar 25, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Thu Mar 25 said:


> I have another problem though. My computer noise is quite loud and i think it maybe because it's vibrating off the walls and off the back of the table.
> 
> (...)
> 
> ...



Switching case fans is very easy, Dan.
Try removing the side panel of your cabinet and take a couple of photos of how your computer looks like on the inside.
Then I can see if it's gonna be just as straightforward for you to switch fans, as it was for me with my pc.
I'll go out and take some photos of my own pc in a second and post it here.
Then it will be easier for me to explain what I've been doing in there.
Basically it's very simple to get extremely good results in terms of noise reduction on a pc.
And I do mean extremely good results - like day and night-different.
Anyway, photo time - you take some too, ok?
After that I will probably be able to tell you exactly what to do with your pc to reduce noise.
Btw. please write which brand and model of power supply you are using, as well as the brand of your CPU cooler + all fans.

Best,
Henrik


EDIT:
I was assuming you were using a PC, but isn't that an Apple keyboard I'm spotting on the photo? If you're using a Mac, I can't help, sorry.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 25, 2010)

hbuus @ Fri Mar 26 said:


> Dan-Jay @ Thu Mar 25 said:
> 
> 
> > I have another problem though. My computer noise is quite loud and i think it maybe because it's vibrating off the walls and off the back of the table.
> ...



Thanks.

No, no. I'm using a PC. I just really like the apple keyboard, so i went out and purchased one.

I can't really take a photo now, but i can in the morning because it's too dark where it is and i only have my really bad camera phone for taking photos.

I will definatly post the brands and such and also take that photo for you. So whenever you come back to the forum next, it will probably be up.

In the mean time. Are you saying new fans would make a massive difference in noise reduction?? And are there good enough fans out there to keep my computer cool and be quite at the same time??


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## d-dmusic (Mar 25, 2010)

Dan, if you can do it, move the computer into an adjacent room or closet. This is what I've done. Buy extension cables for the mouse, keyboard and monitor and send that machine into isolation.
The whirring of the hard drives and fans mask low level information (such as reverb tails and editing details, etc..) I've tried building an isolation box. It just didn't work worth a damn and was alot of effort for nothing.

It seems, from your photo, that you have moved your desk into a corner position where the walls in front of you form an angle. Good ! Just treat those walls as we've discussed and you will be golden !

Oh ! Don't forget those speaker stands. This should be your first priority. You'll be amazed. Those little monitors will come to life on stands.


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## hbuus (Mar 25, 2010)

Ah, ok! I'll look forward to checking out your photos, then I'll see what I can do.
Also write down which motherboard you're using.

Anyway, here are my photos from just now:

1) My pc from the outside
http://www.box.net/shared/80hh6uhq2e

(stuff on top is to keep my cat from jumping up on the cabinet!)

2) Inside the cabinet - overview
http://www.box.net/shared/c4fn68cyyq

3) Case fan
http://www.box.net/shared/2toxja8yja

4) Back of cabinet (case fan attached here)
http://www.box.net/shared/8mouypjqus

5) Cabinet front when opened
http://www.box.net/shared/gp5np68fbm

6) Hard drive noise reduction trick 
http://www.box.net/shared/sporbttgnr

That's it.

Things to notice:

1) PC is placed on some sheets with noise reduction material.
To be honest I doubt this is necessary after I made the hard drive noise reduction trick. But before that, the sheets were necessary to reduce variable resonance noise from within the cabinet - especially created by hard drive read/writing.

2) PSU is 82+ = very efficient = less noise
Enermax have released 87+ PSUs since I bought mine.
I'd get one of those if I had to buy a new PSU today.

3) There's a fan dangling from a piece of elastic string 
It's not in use any longer; I merely have not gotten around to taking it out yet!

4) There's a fan standing on the floor of the cabinet.
This is because I found out I had a temperature problem with my graphics card.
This fan cools the graphics card.
I'm gonna tie it up with elastic string at some point, although it's standing in a secure enough way as it is.

5) At the close-up of the case fan you can see how it is attached with a cable to the motherboard? It's very easy to pull out this cable, which is part 1 of what you need to do to switch the case fan.

6) At the photo of the back of the cabinet, you can see how the case fan is attached. This is part 2 of what you need to do to switch case fan. Take a screwdriver and loosen the 4 screws. When you loosen the 4th, hold the fan so it doesn't fall down when it's free. That's it to remove the fan. Easy, right?

7) Hard disk trick
Go to a sewing store and buy some elastic string.
You can get like 20 metres for $2 or something.
Then make a little "bed" for your hard drive inside the 5,25 bay area of your cabinet.
It's important that the hard drive does not touch the cabinet at all when it's lying on it's little elastic string bed.
I can't tell you how much difference this little change makes.
You'll have to try it yourself to believe it.
But of course, after making this change you have to be very careful with moving your computer, as hard drives do not tolerate too much pushing around.

Anyway, I think this was it for now.
It's quite OT to the topic, though.

Feel free to ask questions, I'll see if I can answer.
Also I can recommend some specific fans for you once I see the specs of your system.

Best,
Henrik


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## Dan Mott (Mar 27, 2010)

Sorry i took so long. Here's my gear.

*Case* - Cooler Master CM-690 1

*Power Supply* - Toughpower Qfan 650W - wo163

*Fans* - My fans are the basic ones that came with the case. Here they are:

Front: 120 x 25 mm Blue LED fan x 1 / 1200 RPM / 21 dBA 
Rear: 120 x 25 mm fan x 1 / 1200 RPM / 21 dBA
Bottom: 120 x 25 mm fan x 1 
Left: 120 x 25 mm fan x 2 - i disconnected this one. It was an optional fan.

*Motherboard * - EX-58UD5


*Here's my pictures.*


My camer isn't good at all. I'm really sorry about that.


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## hbuus (Mar 27, 2010)

Hmm, have you tried to locate exactly where the noise comes from?

Try remove the side of the cabinet and put your ear close to PSU and each fan in turn, to see what makes the worst noise. You can also try and disconnect each fan in turn to see how much more quiet the machine gets then.

Your PSU should be fine; I doubt that is the problem.

One thing that strikes me, though, is that if the fans are mounted on the air holes in the cabinet, for example the two 120 mm. on the one side, then it's gonna make one hell of a lot of noise regardless of how quiet the fans are. It is much better to simply place the fans inside the cabinet, of course in a secure position, or better: tie them up with a piece of elastic string so you're sure they are secured. Place them near air holes.

Anyway, if you find you want to experiment with getting other fans, which I strongly recommend for anybody who have not already got super high quality low-noise fans installed, then go for Noiseblocker MF12-S1 120 mm. fans. They are expensive, but once you try them out, you will know why!

Best,
Henrik


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## Dan Mott (Mar 27, 2010)

hbuus @ Sat Mar 27 said:


> Hmm, have you tried to locate exactly where the noise comes from?
> 
> Try remove the side of the cabinet and put your ear close to PSU and each fan in turn, to see what makes the worst noise. You can also try and disconnect each fan in turn to see how much more quiet the machine gets then.
> 
> ...



Hello.

Thanks for the information on fans.

I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from my graphics card fan. I'm not sure why. Hmm...


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## Dan Mott (Mar 27, 2010)

It's a shame because it looks like i can't purchase any noiseblocker fans in my location which is AUstralia.


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## synthetic (Mar 27, 2010)

Those A5s are more multimedia spekers than mixing speaker, the lowest end ADAMs. A sub will help at the low end but I think you still need something with a bigger woofer for midbass. In a small room a subwoofer and bass management is arguably better than multiple full-range monitors.


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## d-dmusic (Mar 28, 2010)

Dan-Jay @ Sat Mar 27 said:


> synthetic @ Sun Mar 28 said:
> 
> 
> > ...I was monitoring my speakers today and even though they're in a better position i find it impossible to mix well and to listen well. I find i'm turing my speakers up loud to hear details and bass. I'm hearing wayyy to much of the room and it's a real big problem....
> ...


Don't sweat it right now. Take the necessary steps we've gone over. Then, have a good listen and do an analysis, if necessary. Tell us what you think then.

Yeah, I don't know the Adam's at all, so, if they are that small, you may need to make some adjustments there. I have a set of B&W Matrix 802's, series 3 speakers, but, i bought a pair of Yamaha HS50m's as a second set, and, man, I love 'em. So much so that I almost exclusivel mix on them and switch over to the B&W's for a final check.And the Yamahas are very economical. The Hs80M's are the 8" versions and for the money ? They are superb.

You may want to check out this thread :
http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/t/30877/2149/ (http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index. ... 0877/2149/)
it's an interesting read on the Adam A7's. Another person's assesment and follow-ups from some heavy weight pro's in the industry.


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## Dan Mott (Mar 28, 2010)

d-dmusic @ Mon Mar 29 said:


> Dan-Jay @ Sat Mar 27 said:
> 
> 
> > synthetic @ Sun Mar 28 said:
> ...



Cheers.

I'll see what i can come up with.


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